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I’ve been on about this game coming for a while now, and I’ve finally had a chance to sit down and have a few games with my wife. So far, we’ve had three games. We’ve had one 8-bit game (2 heros, 1 mini boss) and two 16-bit games (3 heros, 1 mini boss, 1 boss). The best part? My wife was literally begging for our second 16-bit game! She loves the simple mechanics, and is really enjoying it. Probably beating me every game is helping, but I’m still learning the rules and I think I need to do a bit of reading to better my game-running abilities!

Our current game (still in progress)…

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I love the little slowpoke turtles…

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Click on the pics for a bigger view… if you look carefully, you might even spot my dog!

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With my wife this keen to play… I’m glad I’ve bought almost all of the expansions!

Wazza Out. =D

I was talking to a fellow gamer from my local wargaming club about how I had been absent for quite a period, due to my re-connection with another hobby of mine; RC cars. He explained that he found that hobbies went through cycles, and it assured me that I would be back to wargaming soon.

As I am currently really enjoying my 1:10 scale RC drift car, I thought I would use this little blog as a place that I could cater to both of my hobbies!

First, a bit of background. I have been doing RC cars for about 8 years on and off again. My first experience of the RC world was with my best mate Daniel, who flew RC planes regularly with his dad. He also ended up owning a 1:10 scale nitro buggy, and it was great fun driving it on his large property. In a shock to us all, my friend was diagnosed with Leukemia, and passed away at the far too young age of 14 after a long battle. As a way of remembering him, his family gave me his old remote control buggy, and although I do not have the car anymore, I kept the radio and one of the wheels as a kind of memorial for my friend, may he Rest in Peace.

In an interesting turn of events, my current best mate shared with me that he was interested in getting into RC drifting, as he had seen it at a local club. At this stage, I had 1:10 and a 1:8 off-road truggies (Half truck, half buggy) and was interested in giving it a shot.

My 1:10 Truggy - Hobao Hyper TT

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Although it really isn’t often used much by off-roaders, I really like blinging out my cars with Carbon Fiber goodies:

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My 1:8 (Larger) Truggy – Hobao Hyper ST

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The bodies (Shells) with fluro orange were all my own designs/paint jobs. Both truggies were originally nitro engine powered, but have been converted to electric because I just found it so much easier to run. You just charge the batteries, and off you go… usually to break something…

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But hey, that’s just the cycle of off-road vehicles. Drive it, break it, fix it, drive it, break it, fix it, drive it… etc. With my friend expressing an interest in trying out on-road driving, I thought I would give it a crack! I purchased a Tamiya 1:10 TT01 Mercedes from Sik Hobbies Rockingham. This body was definitely not suited to drift, it was a circuit racer and that just wouldn’t do. Luckily, my friend picked up the same kind of car second-hand, along with a new HPI Racing Subaru body, I was able to have the second-hand Camaro body that came with the car. With a handful of stickers and a large drift style wing, it was definitely starting to look the part:

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I particularly like the “Learner Plates”

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A quick shot of the car minus  the body:

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Last weekend, I entered my first ever drift competition at the Western RC Drifters club which meets behind Stanbridges Hobby Store in Mt Lawley. Click HERE for the google map showing the layout of the track, which is modular (changeable) with the simple addition of barriers.

It was a whole new experience for me. The track was open from 10am till noon for practice, then there was qualifying. Each driver was assessed on how well they drove in 5 particular sections of the track, over two laps. I was so nervous that the Remote Control was literally shaking in my hands as I drove. I spun out quite a few times, but managed to not end up in last place which was nice.

The drivers were then split up into A and B group. A drag racing format was used, with the pole position driver on points competing against the person who came last. For the actual battles, the higher ranked driver could choose to lead or follow in their first lap. The battle then took place over two laps, one driving the lead car and one driving the follow car. The lead car was to try to drift a nice line throughout the track, maintaining a constant sideways action, whereas the follow car was tasked with mimicking the lead car as closely as possible, without making contact that would cause the lead car to lose control.

As it was my first competition, I wasn’t surprised to be knocked out first round, however I had come prepared and spent the rest of the day in a nice comfortable camper chair with a cooler bag full of food and drink… a cheap afternoon of quality Motorsports that just got better and better as the day progressed.

There was a decent turnout, I believe there were 28 people in the competition. Here is the concourse, where competitors presented their cars for judging. Each person at the event was given a single vote for the car they thought was the best. My black Camaro and my friend’s blue Subaru were in the front row. Click on the image for a better view!

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There were some beautifully painted cars there on the day… here is a closer look at a few of them:

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And here is our section of the pits, with my mate Jordon working on his car body:

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So yeah… RC is fun! Any of my Wargaming readers out there dabble in RC as well?

Wazza Out. =D

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My copy of Super Dungeon Explore arrived today… and Wazza is a happy boy! Just spent a few hours building the miniatures. A few models need a bit of liquid greenstuff before undercoating and painting, but I am ready to get my board game on!!! Will probably get a game in sometime this week, really looking forward to it.

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What’s that?! Moar bad guys? Ok then! I give you Fireflow Denizens and the Rock Top Gang!

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Can’t wait to bust these guys out in game… more to come!

And whilst in a friendly local hobby store (Stanbridges), I happened across some train bridges that I think will work well as walkways for some of my 40k scenery:

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What do you think?

 

Wazza Out. =D

Hooo boy! I’m excited!

I’ve ordered a new board game; Super Dungeon Explore by Soda Pop Miniatures.

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Not only did I pick up the game from the super awesome Defiant Gaming online store, I’ve ordered the newly released expansion Von Drakk Manor, the two mini additions of Rock Top Gang & Fireflow Denizens, and also the Limited Edition models of Succubus Vandella & Herald of Volcanis. The only things I haven’t ordered yet are the expansion Caverns of Roxxor (because it’s out of stock) and Dragon’s Clutch. I’m sure I’ll end up grabbing those as well soon enough!

From my readings of forums, the miniatures included in the Super Dungeon Explore game take quite a large amount of time to prepare and assemble (almost everyone said 6+ hours!), but it’s something I look forward to and plan to do right as I would like to paint the miniatures as well. It seems Soda Pop Miniatures listened to their customer’s concerns (particularly board gamers) and the releases since the first game have all come assembled.


I also plan on getting the cool Battlefoam foam kit that safely and securely hold the game components inside the Super Dungeon Explore box.

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And finally, what would a Super Dungeon Explore game be if there was not a Super Dungeon to go exploring? I’m planning on making a modular dungeon, and I’m currently considering using Hirst Arts molds to create my own dungeon.

 

Here’s some dungeons others have created:

 

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I can only hope my dungeon turns out half as good as some of the ones shown here!!! If you click on some of the above images, you can see bigger versions of the pictures. If you don’t do it for all of them, at least have a look at that last dungeon, it’s incredible!

Wazza Out. =D

I have an ongoing game of Dystopian Wars I am playing with my wife. I’m using KoB, and she has FSA. We were both pretty rusty with the game but have enjoyed getting back into it! On to some pics:

My wife’s deployment:

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My Deployment:

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I forgot Escorts are only supposed to be deployed in squadrons of up to 3 models, so I had to move three to join the Battleship on the far side of the force:

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The Dreadnoughts are heading for a confrontation! (Sorry the picture is a little dark, click on it for a better/larger view)

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The game continues. I was starting to worry as she picked on a lot of my smaller ships and I quickly became outnumbered, however her win conditions require killing my three Capital ships (Dreadnought, Battleship and Carrier). I think as the game progresses, it is starting to swing my way:

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t’s been great fun getting back into this fun game!

Wazza Out. =D

Had a 1500 point game against my mate the other day at my house. Thought I’d share some photos…

Setting up made me proud, this city of death looks good, if I may say so myself!

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Dark Angels deploy… Just Belial and 5 Terminators camping on an objective:

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Terrain is helpful for storing dice… keeps the battlefield nice and clear:

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Most of the Dark Angels force:

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Four units of Terminators were Deep Striking deep into enemy territory. Risky… but would it pay off? The dice were good to me. Of the four rolls for scattering, I scored hits all four times!!!

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My first time using a flyer: (The big wooden dice is my game turn counter =)

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The Jetfighter was fun and interesting to use…

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In the end, my friend walked away with a very narrow victory. It was a hard fought, enjoyable and very strategic game.

 

Wazza Out. =D

It finally arrived!!!

crusader

 

For a nice unboxing blog post, check out Mordian7th’s post here! I must say, I was really impressed at how the packaging was designed!!!

I’ve been following the production of this kit for a long time. Many moons ago, a good gaming mate of mine picked up his own (original resin) Crusader, and I was super impressed. I constantly asked him if I could buy it because it hadn’t received a coat of paint, but was repeatedly refused.

I contacted the manufacturer in February 2012, and asked Mark if there were ever plans to produce a cheaper plastic version of the model, only to receive a reply that the plans were already being carried out.  About every 3 months or so, I would see the kit on display at my friends house so I would email Mark and see how the model was coming along. I would receive a nice appreciative reply, that there was a new kit coming out around Gencon, and to keep an eye out. Finally, when the Kickstarter Campaign came around, I jumped on it and grabbed a Crusader with bonus Excalibur Combat Sword / Left Vulcan Cannon / Capacitor Coolers, and from Phase 2; Beowulf/Grendel Cannon Arm, Nova Cannon, Ripper Saw & Hel Cannon.

Here it is… it’s MASSIVE!

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Nerdgasm.

Wazza Out. =D

I recently received my super-awesome kit, the Leviathan Crusader by Dreamforge Games! I got mine through Mark’s Kickstarter Campaign, and have a few more weapons on the way in shipping phase 2.|

When the kit arrived, I just couldn’t make up my mind as to which kind of sword I wanted the model to have, the Excalibur (pointy ended) blade or the squared off blade. Looking closely at the kit, and being a massive fan of magnets, I realised that with a bit of work…

Why done we have both

 

So I set about working out a way to be able to swap between the blades, and figured I might as well show others how I did it so they can have both as well!

A revised version of the instructions can be found here. There were a few mistakes in the instructions included with the set, but now they have been cleared up. I found the PDF instructions were better than the ones included in the box for two reasons, they included the editing needed and the pictures/part numbers were much clearer and easier to read/understand.

Now, on to the tutorial!

Equipment needed for the job!

  • Round disc magnets. I use 3*1mm and 3*2mm. This means 3mm wide, and 1/2mm thick.
  • Hobby drill. I use one for each of the different sized bits.
  • 1mm and 3mm drill bits.
  • Hobby Clippers & Super Glue.

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Step 1: Parts D2 and D3.

  1. Carefully remove the round locating tab from D2. I used a set of clippers, and then shaved off the remainder with a hobby knife.
  2. In the center of the removed circle tab, use the 1mm drill bit/drill to mark and drill a guiding hole. It is more accurate to use the 1mm bit first as it is easier to eyeball the center of the circle. An alternative method is to use a hobby knife and brand new hobby blade, placing the point of the blade in the center point of the circle and spinning the handle to create a shallow guide hole.
  3. Take the 3mm drill bit/drill and create 4 holes for magnets, as shown in the picture.
  4. Pour a little superglue into each hole, and position the magnets into the holes being careful to align them to attract. I used four 3*2mm disc magnets.
  5. Note that you do not use the screw as indicated on the instructions, rather the magnets hold the arm in place instead.

The finished result should look something like this:

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Step 2: Parts D1 & Excalibur Sword

  1. For each sword, collect four 3*1mm disc magnets.
  2. I forced the magnets into the smaller holes, finding that they fit perfectly and held well without glue. Ensure they are sitting flush with the surface on both sides.

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Step 3: Part BB2

  1. This is the most difficult step of the process. You will need two 3*2mm disc magnets. Place a small amount of super glue into the hole on one side of BB2. I used an old hobby knife to carefully position a magnet into the hole, so that it is flush on the inside of the part. This step is repeated with the hole on the other side, however great care needs to be taken in order to ensure that the magnets are aligned to attract one another as the sword magnets will sit between these two.

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Here, you can see the magnets are flush with the inside of the piece.

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Time to see it in action!

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Step 4: Parts DD1A, DD1B

  1. With part DD1a, use a set of hobby clippers or a blade to cut the part into two sections. You want to remove the inside section of the “pin” so that you have two sections that look like DD1B. These are then glued to the outside sections of magnets of part BB2 from the previous step.

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Step 5: Part D4

  1. Glue part D4 onto the removable section of the arm (part D3) to cover the magnet.

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I found that the hydraulics on the front bicep (upper arm) came out of their housings and fell off the model too easily. I decided to magnetise these to stop this from occurring.

Step 1: Parts CC2

  1. The hole already made in this part is just a little larger than needed for magnets. I used one 3*2mm and one 3*1mm magnet together and glued them into the hole on each CC2. Take care to align the magnets so that the holes of each are attracted together.

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Step 2: Part D2

  1. Collect part D2 and carefully remove the tabs that parts CC2 sit on. I used clippers, followed by a hobby knife to shave off the parts the clippers didn’t cut.
  2. Using a 1mm drill bit/drill, drill a guide hole (Say that three times quickly! =) in the center of where you removed a tab.
  3. Using the 3mm drill bit/drill, drill a hole through part D2. Be careful to align this hole straight so that it comes out in the same place on the other side.
  4. Collect two 3*2mm disc magnets. Place a small amount of super glue into the hole, and push the magnets into the hole so they are flush on either side.

(Here you can see how parts CC2 attract one another, as mentioned in step 1)

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I also decided to magnetise the shield for two purposes; one, in case I want to field the model without it, and two, it will be easier to paint the arm and shield if they are separate. I think I mustn’t have tightened the screw in the elbow enough as there wasn’t the same level of rigidity needed to maintain different poses that other joints allowed. In order to stop the bicep hydraulics (CC2 and CC1) from continually separating, I placed a small pin through one of the teeth of the gears in the elbow to limit it’s travel.

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And the finished product!

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Hope that helps any other Crusader owners out there who also want both arm options… And I hope it encourages more people to have a go with magnets!!!

Wazza Out. =D

It’s a bit of an epic saga, but check out this video for more info: VIDEO

It’s another sad day for GW players… it seems another SNAFU (Situation Normal, All F*@%ed Up) especially for Australian gamers. Don’t get me wrong, I know it probably seems I’m turning into a GW hater, but I’m really not. It’s more of a “Hate the company, Love the game” scenario.

C’mon GW, at least TRY to do something positive for the veterans! I think a simple adjustment of how you work out your conversion rates/prices would go a long way to rebuilding some bridges, but maybe that’s just me. Anyone else have a suggestion for Games Workshop?

Wazza Out. =(

 

Saw this blog entry, and had to share it:

http://museonminis.com/takeback-tuesdays/

Check it out!

 

Wazza Out. =D